Use a ‘Spray Everywhere’ disinfectant to Stay Safe

Use a ‘Spray Everywhere’ disinfectant to Stay Safe

If this current outbreak of Covid-19 had happened five or six hundred years ago, we would be reading about it in textbooks alongside the histories of the black plague or the bubonic plague. Today, however, we have tools to fight the spread of infection. We have masks, personal protection equipment, and – disinfectants. Not all disinfectants are equal and some are highly abrasive, leaving behind residues that are toxic to pets and people. Such abrasive products limit your ability to treat all surfaces. Understanding how and where to apply disinfecting products can help you evaluate what products you want to use in your home and workplace. Keep your work and home spaces safe regardless of whether it is Covid-19, the common flu, Canine Parvovirus, or bacterial infections. Use a “spray everywhere” disinfectant to keep your home and family safe.

There are currently over 400 products on the CDC/EPA ‘N’ list of disinfectant products that consumers and professionals can use against SARS-CoV-2 (COVID-19). Most of the products on the N list fall into one of these active-ingredient categories:

  1. Bleach (sodium hypochlorite)
  2. Quaternary Ammonium in high concentration
  3. Alcohol
  4. Hydrogen Peroxide
  5. Phenol

Does my disinfectant actually work?

ALL of the products on the N list have been thoroughly tested, are EPA registered, and thus will be effective against the spread of a wide range of bacteria and viruses. But many disinfectants cannot be used as we need to use them because of their harshly abrasive chemical attributes. These attributes are:

  1. corrosive to surfaces (and therefore need to be wiped away after the appropriate ‘dwell time’)
  2. highly flammable
  3. highly toxic to pets and people (and again, need to be wiped away after the appropriate ‘dwell time’)
  4. leave behind fumes that are highly irritating to nasal and lung tissues

Clearly, some of these products can be dangerous not only to you and your family, but to the surfaces upon which they are applied. Because of inherent dangers in using these highly corrosive and toxic products, we are limited in how we can apply them.

The Most Common – and Least Effective – Application Method

It is quite common to spray only the ‘frequent touch-point’ surfaces such as doorknobs, light switches, etc.. Limiting the places you can spray your disinfectant limits the effectiveness because you are not treating all surfaces, only the ones that people touch frequently. Unfortunately, this is insufficient for the task at hand – stopping the spread of this contagion. Therefore, the ‘cross-contamination’ rate (Transfer of infectious agent or matter from one person or site to another.) will be high. Again, this is insufficient to stop the spread of contagion, because only 20% to 30% of surfaces are being disinfected.

Frequent touch point-only’ spraying is common because many disinfectants are highly corrosive to surfaces and can cause real damage that can cost you real money to replace. Most of the “kills in 2 minutes” types of disinfectants will be tremendously corrosive. Especially if you must spray those surfaces frequently. When using a highly corrosive disinfectant onto a surface, you MUST come back within 5 or 10 minutes and wipe that stuff away. Else it will be causing corrosion damage to your equipment. With highly corrosive disinfectants, it is really difficult to come back later to wipe those surfaces down to protect your equipment – and yourselves, your employees, your families. Because let’s face it – when wiping these surfaces down, you will always leave some behind. These are the ‘toxic residues’ that you really want to avoid regular contact with because of harmful effects on your health.

A Better Way

A better way to stop the spread of contagion is to spray all surfaces – ‘spray everywhere’. This is where SNiPER disinfectant excels. It is non-abrasive and non-corrosive, making it ideal to use around pets, people and indoors. The EPA rates ALL disinfectants for toxicity in four areas – to the skin, to eyes, to lungs, and if ingested. SNiPER has received the lowest toxicity rating that the EPA uses – in ALL FOUR CATEGORIES! If you get some on your skin – no problem, it won’t hurt you. Breathing it in does not harm or irritate lung or nasal membrane tissues. Even in testing acute ingestion exposure (swallowing) showed no damaging effects. Although lethal to microorganisms, SNiPER is very safe for application on virtually every surface of your indoor environment. A ‘spray everywhere’ application process will give you better results because you won’t miss any germs. Spray everywhere gets all the germs.

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Applying SNiPER. It’s easy. It’s thorough.

Because SNiPER is non-abrasive and non-corrosive, it is easy to apply. It is “spray, and walk away”, leaving it to air dry naturally. It’s that easy. And because it is non-corrosive, you can spray everything, and not worry because you don’t have to go back and wipe any residues away. (When spraying fabrics, it is ALWAYS smart to test for colorfastness, by spraying in an inconspicuous area.)

An ‘electric sprayer’ is a machine that gives you control over the droplet size. Using an electric sprayer is a bit like using an air-powered paint sprayer. You point it at the surface and it sprays a cone-shaped spray pattern up to 30 feet (depending on the sprayer you choose to use). So you can literally ‘paint’ all surfaces with a thin coat of disinfectant, ensuring that all surfaces are properly covered with the product. SNiPER is non-corrosive, so you can even spray electronics, keyboards, fabrics, and so on. It is quick and efficient, and that is why the Pro’s use them. Electric sprayers are perfect for when you need to disinfect your entire facility or home, not missing any surfaces. Especially if you need to do this regularly.

You can also apply SNiPER with an ordinary trigger spray bottle for convenience when you do want to disinfect high touch surfaces such as your steering wheel, your phone screen, the sofa. These sprayers are convenient to ‘sanitize’ the place where a visitor sat in your home, or where the repair guy was working on your plumbing, and so on. You can also use pump-up garden-type sprayers for larger areas. Treating “high touch point surfaces” is a good practice for regular maintenance during the day and between “full” or “complete” treatments of your home or facility.

Additional Reading

Disinfect – Yes!  But don’t Harm your Equipment doing it.

Disinfect – Yes! But don’t Harm your Equipment doing it.

Sniper is Non-Corrosive to your devices

This coronavirus has us all scrambling to sanitize and disinfect our spaces. And not just the spaces, but high touch-point areas such as keyboards, electronics tools autos trucks, and so on that we come into direct contact with daily. When I was in a store recently and used the keypad while submitting payment, I noted that it was both sticky and crumbling. When I asked the store person about it, she replied that they are using bleach daily to disinfect that touchpad. I pointed out that the bleach – being corrosive – was eating away the plastic on the pad and it was falling apart, she just shrugged her shoulders (because really, what can she do?).

This is an important aspect of Sniper as a disinfectant – Sniper is non-corrosive. When spraying electronic equipment or your phone, it is really not smart to use something that is going to corrode that equipment. It is much smarter to find a product that won’t cause that harm. In addition to its other wonderful properties, Sniper is safe for hard and porous surfaces. You can rely on it to not cause harm to your touch screen, or your keyboard, or to any of the other devices or equipment you use.

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Buy a 4 ounce spray bottle of Sniper Sniper disinfectant is non-corrosive

The same is true for other equipment. I fielded a call from our local fitness center. They had been spraying their machines with some corrosive product and the rubber handles began corroding after only a few days. You can imagine how that would feel in your hands – a tacky, sticky, crumbling mess! And this after only a few days.

Be smart. Sniper doesn’t cause harm to most surfaces because it is non-corrosive. And because it is non-corrosive, it doesn’t cause harm to skin if you happen to get some on yourself. Find yourself a small spray bottle and carry it with you to disinfect surfaces you come in contact with when out in public. The 4 oz spray bottle is ideal for this!

Related Reading

A Brief History of Humans versus Dirt

A Brief History of Humans versus Dirt

One of the great things about Nok-Out and SNiPER is their environmental friendliness. They are both quite safe for use in your house or place of work and this is something that distinguishes our products from other cleansers, which are not so nice, not so friendly to your environment. So I became a little curious and did a little research into how modern cleaning products developed. It is actually kind of interesting. To me, anyway. I hope you will get something good from it too, because in a very real way, it is Humans Versus Dirt. And we have to stay on top of this!

History of Clean

Water was our first cleaner and is sometimes referred to as the closest thing there is to a ‘universal solvent’. All kinds of stuff dissolves into water and, of course, we still use it today because it is so good at being a solvent. Around 2200 BC, the Babylonians made the first known ‘soaps’. Their soap was made from ash and animal fats and water. The Egyptians improved on this by using vegetable oils and alkaline salts that they used for laundry and for their skin as well. The ancient Greeks didn’t use soaps, but instead, scrubbed themselves with salt, clay, pumice and the like, topped off with a coating of oils, which they then scrapped off their skin using a tool called a strigil.

Romans worshiped their Gods by sacrificing animals. The fats that drained out mixed with water and volcanic or other ash to create the first lye solutions. One of the temples where this occurred was named “Sapo” and it is from this place that we get the modern word ‘soap’.

Stinking their way through life…

Alas, Roman civilization collapsed and with it went the habit of washing ourselves. The average person in Europe had no access to any cleanser other than water and personal cleanliness became a thing of the past. Heavens! Can you imagine the stench?!? While our European ancestors were stinking their way through life, the Islamic societies were using soaps with a pleasant smell made from olive oil, lime and alkali. These were exported to Europe. The 16th century in Europe saw the first European production of soaps made from vegetable oil only – called Castile Soap. It was not until the 18th century in Europe, that advertising campaigns promoted the awareness of the relationship between cleanliness and health.

Once the industrial revolution got going, we had production of bar soap and then – liquid soap. BJ Johnson used palm and olive oils to make ‘palmolive” liquid soap. Since then has been a lot of changes as detergents were introduced and the miracle of modern chemistry was applied to cleaning products. Instead of using natural products such as animal or vegetable derived fats and oils, chemists began producing more and more powerful chemical cleansers with components whose names are difficult to pronounce. (A good example is”alkylbenzenesulfonates” and if you go looking at the ingredients list of cleaners, you will certainly find many more!)

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All this Modern Cleanliness is healthy, Right?

Although modern cleaning products do an awesome job of cleaning, some of them are harsh and smell bad. Other ingredients are highly toxic and dangerous – like bleach and ammonia. Many of these chemicals smelled terrible and people wouldn’t use them. So the manufacturers began adding chemical fragrances to hide the really awful chemical smells.

Somewhere along the way, people have become trained (like Pavlov’s dogs!) to believe that when you smell that fresh scent, you know it is clean. Well, it may be clean in the sense that you have washed away the populations of microbes successfully, but the chemicals are still there and they may leave residues and by-products that distort the relationship between being clean and being healthy. Is a home really ‘clean’ when the cleansers being used create a toxic indoor atmosphere? This is some of what is driving the concerns about Indoor Air Pollution and also why the EPA tells us that it is not uncommon for our homes to have up to 400% of the ‘pollution’ found in outdoor air.

What to do? How to choose a cleaner that won’t harm my home and family?

Like most things in life, there is a middle ground that is probably the best place to be. There may be times when you do need to use bleach or other harsh chemicals inside your home. But most of the time, a lesser cleaning solution that is not so harsh will work just fine. A friend who is a carpet cleaner says that “Green Cleaning’ means using cleansers that have a neutral or near-neutral pH. This makes a lot of sense to me. Look at the following table

     Cleaner   pH  
Chlorine Bleach 11 – 13 Alkaline
Ammonia 11 – 12 Alkaline
Tub & Tile Cleaner 11 – 13 Alkaline
Borax 10 Alkaline
Mild Dish Soap 7 – 8 slightly alkaline
Cleaning Vinegar 3 acidic
Toilet Bowl Cleaner 1 – 3 Acidic

Remember your chemistry class? The scale goes from 1 to 14 with neutral being 7. You can see that most cleansers are alkaline and the really powerful ones are very high pH. It is the extremes that deserve special care because they are the ones likely to form harmful by-products. It is risky when some of them are combined, as might be the case if you are cleaning your toilet bowl with more than one cleaner.

The Bottom Line

We have come a long way since water was our only cleanser and in the battle of humans versus dirt, we are winning. Our homes and bodies and clothes are LOTS cleaner now than they have ever been in the past, but due to cleanser residues and chemical by-products that can form, the quality of our indoor air has suffered. This is especially true in homes that are sealed tightly against heat or cold.

What to Do?

The solution is to use those powerful cleansers sparingly and only when you have good ventilation. Take great care when using more than one cleaner. You are likely to leave small amounts of chemical residues behind as you clean. The cleanser you use next may cause dangerous fumes to develop, such as can happen when ammonia comes in contact with bleach. As a general rule, you and your home will be safe if you use cleaning products that do not stray far from the neutral 7.

Nok-Out and SNiPER both have a pH of around 8.5 which is close enough to the middle ground of 7 that it is unlikely to cause any harm. Mild dish soap is one of the most useful and least harmful cleaners. Vinegar may be a natural product but with a pH of 3 is is a fairly strong acid.

Additional Reading

Remove Old-House Odor

Remove Old-House Odor

When you live in your home for years and years, decades, it is not uncommon for the house to develop an odor. Realtors call it “old-house odor’ and it is dreaded because of the negative ‘first impression’ it can leave on a potential buyer. The good news is – this can be taken care of and new life breathed into that home. Whether you are selling your home or would just like to give it an ‘odor-control makeover’, you can follow these steps to remove old-house odor and leave your home smelling as good as outdoors. For those of you who think that no odor is best, we agree and here’s how to accomplish it.

1) Air circulation is important. Open those windows, replace air filters regularly. This will help dry out the home, which will, all by itself, help remove old house odor. Additionally, the fresh air will replace air that has become saturated with Volatile Organic Compounds that may have entered your home with new mattresses, paints and other items. If ventilation in some rooms is not good, use fans to blow the air around and speed the drying.

2) Check for damp areas and make sure they dry out. You may need a de-humidifier to help. Humidity control inside your home is crucial. It is smart to have a hygrometer (measures humidity) and thermometer for every floor in your house. They are cheap these days and can tell you when to run that de-humidifier. If some rooms are often higher humidity, you may want one especially for that particular room. Damp, or high-humidity rooms are definitely a source of old house odor.


3) Mold is one of the primary sources of that old-house odor. Taking steps to dry out and dehumidify removes a necessary food source for mold. Without a water source, mold doesn’t grow. So check for leaks in rooms that feel excessively humid. Mold is actually a type of fungus and musty odors all come from fungal infestations. If you can locate the area of fungal growth and get some SNiPER on the fungus – that odor will disappear!

HVAC and Ductwork

4) Check your HVAC system. Ducts can harbor mold as well and since you can’t see inside them easily, they can often be a source of hold house odor. If necessary, have the ducts cleaned and spray some SNiPER disinfectant in there to remove residual odors. A ‘fogger’ is the best type of sprayer for ducts. (they are not cheap, however, and it may be your best option to rent one from your local tool rental shop).

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Buy a Gallon of Nok-Out Odor Eliminator NokOut Odor Eliminator

5) Interior walls are rarely cleaned and even though they may not appear to be dirty, they can become greasy from cooking and then dust sticks to them easily. You can spray walls and painted surfaces with Nok-Out and wipe them down. This is especially important if there have been smokers in the home.

Carpets absorb odors – and are a Source of Odors too

6) Carpets are like a floor-based air filter and accumulate dust, mites, insect carcases and all manner of smelly stuff. Give the home a good thorough vacuuming and then do it again, and maybe again one more time. Most of the soils that are in carpets are not water soluble so just your vacuum cleaner can do a great job of removing potentially smelly stuff that has accumulated in your carpet.

If there are pet odors in the carpet get yourself a small black-light flashlight (UV) and go into the affected areas in the darkness. Urine will glow a pale green color and is quite obvious. You may also see a purplish color – this is detergent of some sort. In severe cases, you may need to have the carpet professionally cleaned. Use a pump-up garden sprayer, and dilute Nok-Out 50/50 with tap water and spray the carpet after the cleaners have finished, while the carpet is still wet.

Remember that Nok-Out and SNiPER do their work when they come into direct contact with the odor source. Diluting up to 4 to one (water to Nok-Out) will work for spot treatments.

Check for residual odors

7) After all this cleaning, there should be a big difference in the way the house smells. Give it a few days for everything to normalize and then go about the house giving it the nose test. Some odor sources may be in the attic or in crawl spaces below the home.

It may sound like a lot of work to remove old house odor, but the rewards of having your home smell fresh are certainly worth it! Remember that it took years for the old-house odor to develop. But if you work at it, you can remove that old-house odor before selling Grandma’s old house!

Additional Reading

  1. Carpet odors:,,
  2. Use of a ‘Fogger’ machine:
  3. Mold:,
  9. How to find odors in your home:
  10. HVAC:

Get Rid of Pet Odors in your Car

Get Rid of Pet Odors in your Car

We love our pets because after all, pets are family! But however adorable they may be, they occasionally smell bad – even cats! So when a customer called and asked how to remove the odor of her favorite goat from her car, (after I stopped laughing) I provided a step-by-step approach to getting her car to have no smell again. For all you city people out there, have you ever smelled a goat?!? They really do stink! She called back and said that it worked. So if Nok-Out or SNiPER can remove the goat smell from her car, you’ll find it easy to get rid of pet odor from your car, too!

Here’s how

1st give the car a good vacuuming and try hard to get up all the hair. Vacuum the seats, flat surfaces where the pet likes to ride and the floor too. Pet hair is often the source of a LOT of pet odor. So just this one step should help to remove the pet odor from your car.


Begin systematically spraying the seats and flat surfaces where your pet likes to ride. You may have to spray carpet and seat cushions heavily. Remember that Nok-Out or SNiPER work when they are in direct contact with the odor source. Much of that odor source will be oils that may have penetrated deeply into porous non-hard surfaces. If the issue is severe, then spray heavily, allow it to sit for 10 minutes, spray a bit more and then use an old towel to scrub those wet soft surfaces. You are trying to scrub away whatever stinky stuff might be clinging to the carpet or cushions.

Finishing Up

Use a home vaporizer or room humidifier, preferably of the ‘cool mist’ type to ‘fog’ the interior of your vehicle. This is a great treatment that is easy. Put some Nok-Out or SNiPER into the reservoir of the machine. The bigger your vehicle, the more you’ll want to put in the reservoir. For small cars, 8 – 12 ounces is usually sufficient. Make sure the windows are rolled up. Plug in the vaporizer and place it on a relatively flat surface and close the doors. Allow this to run overnight, or for several hours before opening the windows to air the vehicle out.

The nice thing about this treatment is that when you are done your vehicle should have a nice neutral smell. Not some sticky cloying artificial fragrance that really smells awful – just no smell at all. You can get rid of pet odor in your car!

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